The temperature dropped last week and suddenly I am pulling out scarves and making soup. It feels good. In New York, October arrived with a bare tinge of cold in electric blue skies and vees of geese honking overhead. Here, I never notice the geese. The leaves are still unnaturally green. But the sun rays are deeper, a dampness is settling in. I don’t mind it. We’re turning indoors and there’s an exciting shift in the kitchen.
Last weekend, carried away by the auspicious date of the equinox, I made grouse. Not because I particularly love it (or even remember ever having it), but because it was the right moment. A return to the kitchen, to cooking, properly, with friends, for friends. It is as autumn feels.
Was there a more of-the-moment meal, for the 24th of September, than game? I chose grouse because it is considered one of the gamiest of game birds. ‘Wenn schon, denn schon,’ as the Germans say — ‘If you’re going to do something, do it fully.’
I devised the menu carefully, excitedly. The grouse ended up perfectly cooked (excellent method here); all the components were good, complementary, a couple of things maybe slightly off key — the polenta a bit less creamy than I intended, the kale cooked too soon. I am, of course, my own worse critic, and while I have long learned from Julia Child never to apologise ‘no matter what happens in the kitchen’, I may have broken this rule in a sideways manner by admitting my annoyance at having forgetten to make a sauce or gravy. Again! Many friends will confirm this is one of my great weaknesses.
Not everyone thought the grouse was such a big deal but I liked it a lot. It was genuinely delicious and its seasonality makes it all the more special. Yes, chicken is juicier, but chicken can be had all year round…
EQUINOX MENU
Grouse
Cooking instructions from Farmison
Polenta
Method in David Tanis’ book A Platter of Figs
Sautéed kale
Very briefly sautéed at the last minute, lid on, in olive oil with salt and a squeeze of lemon at the end — it should stay vivid green!
Pan fried mushrooms
N&Q archives
Plum cake
Also from A Platter of Figs and likely soon to be plum cake number four on N&Q!
TO DRINK
We started the evening with glasses of vermouth and soda, a drink I noticed in The Spirits a few months ago. I’ve mentioned this newsletter before, it remains one of my favourite. Richard Godwin wrote about this drink at the height of summer, understandably — it’s a light apéritif. But I think it’s perfect for now too, especially when leaning comfortably against a dash of bitters, before night swallows the days completely and the heavy drinking starts.
Vermouth & Soda from Richard Godwin’s The Spirits
TO COOK
PLUMS!
I had never thought of myself as a particular lover of plums, it has crept up on me. Plums may, in fact, have become my favourite fruit. If this means something? It seems futile to name ‘favourite’ anythings, especially foods, as everything depends so much on the moment and the mood. But is there a fruit that combines the yumminess (I know! I also never thought I would ever say — let alone write! — that word out loud) with the versatility of plums: jams, compotes, tartes, cakes, as is… Unawares, I have grown to like plums a lot. There are already three recipes for plum cake on Nettle & Quince (soon possibly another), and four for plum jam!
Plum cakes from the archives [N&Q]
A few plum jams [N&Q]
PICKLING AND PRESERVING
This is the time, it will be over too soon.
Green tomato jam [N&Q] — a yearly ritual, and one I never miss, rivalled in its regularity only with Seville orange marmalade in February.
For anyone lucky enough to have a fig-laden tree in their garden, even if they haven’t ripened, there is something good to make: Honey-preserved green figs [Guardian].
These Quick pickles [N&Q], for the kirby cucumbers that are impossible to resist when spotted at a market stall.
In case a few ripe red tomatoes do remain, this chutney is incredible — Ottolenghi tomato chutney [N&Q]
Prunelle! (Sloe gin or liqueur) — the winter nights will thank us for it.
QUINCE
Of course October is the month of QUINCE! Quince paste, quince jelly, poached quince, quince in tartes and stews [all recipes from the N&Q archives]
But also, ‘Quince marzipan pralines’ from History at Home, a newly discovered German website (translated into english). I mean.
MORE FOOD FOR THE SEASON
Like a warm hug of a dish, this Chard gratin already has me longing for the coldest days, and for a lighter touch, sweet and sour chard builds a bridge between the seasons [both N&Q].
Always listen when Fergus Henderson publishes a recipe. His braised rabbit with mustard may convince me to give rabbit another chance (I have nothing against it, I’ve just never been entirely smitten), but what I am certain to try is the accompanying beetroot, red onion, and red cabbage salad [Guardian].
TO EAT OUT
The rate of restaurant openings in London is always dizzying, and above the constant murmur a few stand out. Here are some places I’ve been hearing about, reading about, and excited to try.
The Baring by the canal — a new ‘not’ gastro pub is always a good thing [Guardian review here]
Cadet on Newington Green — lovely looking spot for wine and charcuterie.
Good Things deli on Newington Church Street — where hopefully the salt beef bagels won’t be running out quite as quickly.
The Tamil Prince also highly lauded in the Guardian by Grace Dent, who seems to be spending all her time in North London pubs…
The Audley Public House, latest venture by the hospitality arm of the Hauser & Wirth gallery, Artfarm. In case one ever needed to eat in Mayfair…
St John Marylebone (due to open in October) — no introduction needed.
Tatale in the recently re-opened Africa Centre in Southwark, excited to see both.
TO READ AND LISTEN AND SEE
The book London Feeds Itself just arrived and I’m not sure where to start, but I can’t put it down. This article in conversation with Jonathan Nunn, founder of Vittles and the book’s editor, is worth reading. [Guardian]
On Ben Harney Jr., the Real Mother Shuckers, and reclaiming the history of oysters in New York [NYT]
A cool piece about beavers! These ‘highly skilled environmental engineers.’ [NYT]
A fantastical, short (audio) story that will scare anyone into taking better care of their sourdough mother…
And, finally, two exhibitions I’ve seen recently and can only recommend: South African artist William Kentridge at the Royal Academy in London and Ukrainian photographer Boris Mikhailov at the MEP (Maison Européene de la Photographie) in Paris.
It’s good to be headed back indoors. Happy October!
Nettle & Quince in October
I’m off to find my first quince, (I don’t have a tree, but the local Turkish grocer had a good supply last October). I do love grouse and I’m looking forward to pheasant. Little game birds work so well with autumnal vegetables!
So much to read, thank you 🍁🍂🍁