The recipe is unadorned, it is simple and self contained. Just five ingredients, including the bones with which to make fish stock. I love it.
I jotted it down so long ago and each time I retrieve the spartan notes, I am beamed to the corner of 9th Avenue and West 13th Street in New York, in 1999. Melinda had an enormous two-story space there, above the uneven cobbles and windowless street level — below her was a baker. The neighbours were fetish clubs, sex workers, the last meatpackers and wholesalers from whom she bought the fish, for this stew, and for her opulent Thanksgivings which featured whole salmon as well as turkey! She cooked simply and assuredly, for others, as I’ve noticed Australians know particularly well how to do. When I grow up I hope one day I have this effortlessness.
The loft was bare bricks and drammatically staged with Melinda’s metal sculptures. Intentionally lit. The kitchen self assembled, I’m pretty sure we brought over some pots and pans to help prepare Thanksgiving. She attracted artists and writers, dancers, new to the city, precarious, every one in the midst of something exciting. I’d be flinching at the clichés if it wasn’t so very real. But already the limos had arrived and a slick new brasserie, Pastis, appeared on the corner. Melinda moved out. Years on Sephora opened where the sticky metal slab of her door used to be. A slim shadow, still alive in our memory, the old building was torn down and a generic homewares store replaced Pastis and joined Sephora on the block.
To me it remains Melinda’s place.
And I have this stew, and I love it, for all of the reasons. (And this is Melinda now.)
RECIPE : Melinda’s Salmon Stew
NOTE: I learned this recipe using salmon steaks and I like to use them here, as it makes the recipe self contained and minimalist, since it precludes the use of fish stock. However it is a bit more fiddly, and salmon steaks are not always as easy to get. I’ve included suggestions for using salmon fillets and fish stock instead.
For 4
500g salmon steaks, ideally about 4cm (1 1/2 inch) thick, or salmon fillets
1 bay leaf (optional)
Water, or 1 litre of fish stock if using salmon fillets
2 leeks about 200g
2 to 3 carrots about 200g
2 to 3 potatoes about 200g
Crème fraîche
If using salmon steaks — gently cut the central bones out of the steak and place them with a bay leaf in a saucepan large enough to cook the stew (mine is 4.2 L).
Cover with water to about 1/3 of the saucepan and bring to a gentle boil. Let simmer while preparing the rest of the ingredients, this will be the stock!
Trim the leeks’ roots and tough dark ends. (Add those dark bits, washed, to the simmering stock.) Cut the leeks into 4 cm (1 1/2 inch) chunks. Wash these thoroughly to expel any grit caught between the leaves. Set aside.
Trim and peel the carrots and cut those into similar length chunks. If the carrots are quite thick, slice those in half lengthwise. Set aside with the leeks.
Peel the potatoes and cut into chunks of a size similar to the other vegetables.
Cut the salmon into similar large-ish chunks and set aside separately from the vegetables.
Once the stock has simmered for 10 to 15 minutes while the vegetables were being prepped, turn off the heat and use a strainer to remove and discard the fish bones and leek ends and the scummy bits. (See lower right hand photo above.)
Turn the heat back on under the stock.
=> If using ready made fish stock, heat it now in the saucepan that will house the stew.
Once the stock simmers, add the vegetables. Pour in more water if necessary, to cover the vegetables by about an inch (2.5 cm).
Let the vegetables cook gently for 50 minutes to an hour, until they are soft, not falling apart.
A few minutes before serving, add the salmon. It will take a bare few minutes to cook.
Serve with a spoonful of crème fraîche, a pinch of salt, and a sprig of dill if you happen to have some to hand.
What a lovely story and delicious sounding recipe. Thank you for sharing.