Oregano is the only herb that grows in our north-facing, perennially shady London garden. It has survived the damp, the foxes, the drought… I use it all the time. For salads where one might usually use basil, or baked dishes such as this.
I also always have salted capers in the house, and am getting better at using them more often and more instinctually. On our way back from the Italian Alps this summer we stopped in Torino and I bought a big bag (not big enough!). These ones are fat and juicy and serve this purpose even better.
The last ingredient is lemon, which we are never without.
It is practically a pantry staple dish — once you’ve bought the fish!
RECIPE : Baked cod with lemon, capers, and oregano
Serves 4
Quantities can be scaled up or down as necessary
4 to 5 Tbsp salted capers
One lemon
Olive oil
600g to 700g cod
Generous few sprigs of oregano
2 Tbsp butter
Preheat the oven to 175C (350F).
Rinse the salt from the capers and soak them in fresh water for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on how salty they are (they can remain somewhat salty as there is no other salt in the dish).
Cut the lemon as thinly as possible into half moons, and each moon in half to create thin quarter slices.
In a baking dish, pour a little olive oil. Place the cod on top. Scatter the lemon slices over the fish, then the capers, and finally the sprigs of oregano, lightly rubbed with olive oil so they don’t burn immediately in the oven. Cut little shards of butter and dot the cod with these. As it melts the butter will carry the flavours of the oregano, capers, and lemon into a sauce.
Slide the dish into the oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the piece of cod.
Serve the fish with the capers, oregano, and lemon and a spoonful of the cooking juices.
It goes very well with boiled potatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes, and samphire.